<abstract xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml"><p>The paper presents results of field and theoretical investigations of a natural sandy shore located near the IBW PAN Coastal Research Station in Lubiatowo (Poland, the south Baltic Sea). The study site displays multi-bar cross-shore profiles that intensively dissipate wave energy, mostly by breaking. The main field data comprise offshore wave parameters and three cross-shore bathymetric profiles. Waveinduced nearbed velocities and bed shear stresses are theoretically modelled for weak, moderate, strong and extreme storm conditions to determine sediment motion regimes at various locations on the seaward boundary of the surf zone. The paper contains a discussion on the depth of closure concept, according to which the offshore range of sea bottom changes can be determined by the extreme seasonal deep-water wave parameters.</p></abstract>

The paper presents results of field and theoretical investigations of a natural sandy shore located near the IBW PAN Coastal Research Station in Lubiatowo (Poland, the south Baltic Sea). The study site displays multi-bar cross-shore profiles that intensively dissipate wave energy, mostly by breaking. The main field data comprise offshore wave parameters and three cross-shore bathymetric profiles. Waveinduced nearbed velocities and bed shear stresses are theoretically modelled for weak, moderate, strong and extreme storm conditions to determine sediment motion regimes at various locations on the seaward boundary of the surf zone. The paper contains a discussion on the depth of closure concept, according to which the offshore range of sea bottom changes can be determined by the extreme seasonal deep-water wave parameters.

Wave-Induced Sediment Motion Beyond the Surf Zone: Case Study of Lubiatowo (Poland)

Institute of Hydro-Engineering, Polish Academy of Sciences, ul. Kościerska 7, 80-328 Gdańsk, Poland

Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics

This work is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 3.0 License.

The paper presents results of field and theoretical investigations of a natural sandy shore located near the IBW PAN Coastal Research Station in Lubiatowo...

Wave-Induced Sediment Motion Beyond the Surf Zone: Case Study of Lubiatowo (Poland)

Publié en ligne: 01 déc. 2015

Pages: 27 - 39

Reçu: 03 avr. 2015

Accepté: 29 juin 2015

DOI: https://doi.org/10.1515/heem-2015-0017

Mots clés
cross-shore seabed profile, offshore wave climate, wave transformation, nearbed flow velocities, bed shear stresses, sediment motion, depth of closure

© 2015 Grzegorz R. Cerkowniak et al., published by De Gruyter Open

This work is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 3.0 License.

Wave-Induced Sediment Motion Beyond the Surf Zone: Case Study of Lubiatowo (Poland)

Publié en ligne: 01 déc. 2015

Pages: 27 - 39

Reçu: 03 avr. 2015

Accepté: 29 juin 2015

DOI: https://doi.org/10.1515/heem-2015-0017

Mots cléscross-shore seabed profile, offshore wave climate, wave transformation, nearbed flow velocities, bed shear stresses, sediment motion, depth of closure

© 2015 Grzegorz R. Cerkowniak et al., published by De Gruyter Open

This work is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 3.0 License.

Mots clés
cross-shore seabed profile, offshore wave climate, wave transformation, nearbed flow velocities, bed shear stresses, sediment motion, depth of closure