A New Approach to Evaluate Fabric Hand Based on Three-Dimensional Drape Model

Open access

Abstract

Fabric quality and performance is assessed subjectively by the customer using an important and complex phenomenon of fabric hand. Objectively, it is evaluated with complicated and expensive instruments, such as Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabrics (KES-F) and Fabric Assurance with Simple Testing (FAST). The present research explores a non-touch objective approach, i.e., three-dimensional (3D) drape model to estimate fabric hand. Fabric hand prediction was testified on different commercial fabrics spanning a wide range of areal weight, thickness, yarn count, and fabric density. Fabric objective ranks based on drape indicators using principal component analysis (PCA) were compared with subjective ranks of fabric hand. Additionally, fabric drape is evaluated three dimensionally and a new drape indicator drape height (DH) is proposed. The cosine similarity results have proved fabric drape as an objective alternate to fabric hand.

[1] Pan, N., Yen, K. C., (1992). Physical interpretations of curves obtained through the fabric extraction process for handle measurement. Textile Research Journal, 62(5), 279-290.

[2] Pan, N., (2006). Quantification and evaluation of human tactile sense towards fabrics. International Journal of Design & Nature and Ecodynamics, 1(1), 48-60.

[3] Wang, H., Mahar, T. J., Hall, R. (2012). Prediction of the handle characteristics of lightweight next-to-skin knitted fabrics using a fabric extraction technique. Journal of the Textile Institute, 103(7), 691-697.

[4] Grover, G., Sultan, M., Spivak, S. (1993). A screening technique for fabric handle. Journal of the Textile Institute, 84(3), 486-494.

[5] Peirce, F., (1930). The “handle” of cloth as a measurable quantity. Journal of the Textile Institute Transactions, 21(9), T377-T416.

[6] Kawabata, S., (1980). Examination of effect of basic mechanical properties of fabrics on fabric hand. In ‘Mechanics of flexible fiber assemblies’. NATO Advanced Study Institute Series. (Eds JWS Hearle, JJ Thwaites, J Amirbayat), 405-417.

[7] Kawabata, S., (1980). The Standardization and analysis of hand evaluation. The Hand Evaluation and Standardization Committee, The Textile Machinery Society of Japan.

[8] Morooka, H., Niwa, M., (1976). Relation between drape coefficients and mechanical properties of fabrics. Vol. 22, 67-73.

[9] Lai, S. S., Shyr, T. W., Lin, J. Y. (2002). Compariso between KES-FB and FAST in discrimination of fabric characteristics. Journal of Textile Engineering, 48(2), 43-49.

[10] Ly, N. G., Tester, D. H., Buckenham, P., Roczniok, A. F., Brothers, M. et al., (1988). Simple instruments for quality control in a tailoring company. IWTO: Paris

[11] Kim, H. S., Na, M. H., (2013). Effects of bending properties and drapability on the hand and appearance of wool-blended Fabrics: Comparison of real clothing with online and 3D virtual garments. Fibers and Polymers, 14(12), 2148-2156.

[12] Xue, Z., Zeng, X., Koehl, L., Chen, L., (2014). Extracting fabric hand information from visual representations of flared skirts. Textile Research Journal, 84(3), 246-266.

[13] Kim, J. O., Slaten, B. L., (1999). Objective evaluation of fabric hand: part I: relationships of fabric hand by the extraction method and related physical and surface properties. Textile Research Journal, 69(1), 59-67.

[14] Elder, H., Fisher, S., Hutchison, G., Beattie, S., (1985). A psychological scale for fabric stiffness. Journal of the Textile Institute, 76(6), 442-449.

[15] Tokmak, O., Berkalp O. B., Gersak J. (2010). Investigation of the mechanics and performance of woven fabrics using objective evaluation techniques. Part I: the relationship between FAST, KES-F and Cusick’s drape-meter parameters. Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe, 18, 2 (79), 55-59.

[16] Chu, C. C., Platt M. M., Hamburger W. J. (1960). Investigation of the factors affecting the drapeability of fabrics. Textile Research Journal, 30(1), 66-67.

[17] Cusick, G., (1965). The dependence of fabric drape on bending and shear stiffness. Journal of the Textile Institute Transactions, 56(11), T596-T606.

[18] Viera, G., Zdenek K., (2014). Drape evaluation by the 3D drape scanner. Journal of Textile & Apparel/Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon, 24(3), 279-285.

[19] ASTM, D-04/D1776. (2004). Standard practice for conditioning and testing textiles. ASTM International.

[20] Suelar, V., Okur A., (2007). Sensory evaluation methods for tactile properties of fabrics. Journal of Sensory Studies, 22(1), 1-16.

[21] Wu, G., Li, D., Hu, P., Zhong, Y., Pan, N., (2018). Automatic foot scanning and measurement based on multiple RGBdepth cameras. Textile Research Journal, 88(2), 167-181.

[22] Stylios, G. K., R. Zhu, R., (1997). The characterisation of the static and dynamic drape of fabrics. The Journal of The Textile Institute, 88(4), 465-475.

[23] Cusick, G. E., (1968). The measurement of fabric drape. Journal of the Textile Institute, 59(6), 253-260.

[24] Jeong, Y., (1998). A study of fabric-drape behaviour with image analysis part I: measurement, characterisation, and instability. Journal of the Textile Institute, 89(1), 59-69.

[25] Stylios, G., Wan T., (1999). The concept of virtual measurement: 3D fabric drapeability. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 11(1), 10-18.

[26] Behera, B. K, Pattanayak A. K., (2008). Measurement and modelling of drape using digital image processing. Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research, 33, 230-238.

[27] Robson, D., Long C.C., (2000). Long. Drape analysis using imaging techniques. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 18(1), 1-8.

[28] Jevšnik, S., Geršak J., (2004). Modelling the fused panel for a numerical simulation of drape. Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe, 12(1), 47-52.

[29] Mizutani, C., Amano T., Sakaguchi Y., (2005). A new apparatus for the study of fabric drape. Textile Research Journal, 75(1), 81-87.

[30] Al-Gaadi, B., Goktepe F., Halasz M., (2012). A new method in fabric drape measurement and analysis of the drape formation process. Textile Research Journal, 82(5), 502-512.

[31] May-Plumlee, T., Tester, D., Jeffrey E., Narahari, K., Pradeep P., (2003). Evaluating 3D drape simulations: methods and metrics. International Textile Design and Engineering Conference (INT-EDEC).

[32] Carrera-Gallissà, E., Capdevila, X., Valldeperas J., (2016). Evaluating drape shape in woven fabrics. The Journal of The Textile Institute, 108(3), 325-336.

[33] Jevšnik, S., Žunič-Lojen, D., (2007). Drape behaviour of seamed fabrics. Fibers and polymers, 8(5), 550-557.

[34] Wu, G., Yu, Z., Hussain, A., Zhong, Y., (2017). 3D Drape Reconstruction and Parameterization Based on Smartphone Video and Elliptical Fourier Analysis. Procedia Computer Science, 108, 1552-1561.

Autex Research Journal

The Journal of Association of Universities for Textiles (AUTEX)

Journal Information


IMPACT FACTOR 2018: 0.927
5-year IMPACT FACTOR: 1,016

CiteScore 2018: 1.21

SCImago Journal Rank (SJR) 2018: 0.395
Source Normalized Impact per Paper (SNIP) 2018: 1.044

Metrics

All Time Past Year Past 30 Days
Abstract Views 0 0 0
Full Text Views 100 100 14
PDF Downloads 67 67 10