We investigated the effects of the combinations of patternmaking methods and dress forms on the appearance of a garment. Six upper garments were made using three patternmaking methods used in France, Italy, and Japan, and two dress forms made in Japan and France. The patterns and the appearances of the garments were compared using geometrical measurements. Sensory evaluations of the differences in garment appearance and fit on each dress form were also carried out. In the patterns, the positions of bust and waist darts were different. The waist dart length, bust dart length, and positions of the bust top were different depending on the patternmaking method, even when the same dress form was used. This was a result of differences in the measurements used and the calculation methods employed for other dimensions. This was because the ideal body shape was different for each patternmaking method. Even for garments produced for the same dress form, the appearances of the shoulder, bust, and waist from the front, side, and back views were different depending on the patternmaking method. As a result of the sensory evaluation, it was also found that the bust and waist shapes of the garments were different depending on the combination of patternmaking method and dress form. Therefore, to obtain a garment with better appearance, it is necessary to understand the effects of the combinations of patternmaking methods and body shapes.
If the inline PDF is not rendering correctly, you can download the PDF file here.
 Kim K. Otani T. Takatera M. (2015). Effect of patternmaker’s proficiency on the creation of clothing. Proceedings of the 1st International Symposium on Affective Science and Engineering (ISASE2015) A2-2 March 22-23 2015 Tokyo Japan.
 Modellistica industriale donna (2012). Istituto carlo secoli Italy.
 Miyoshi M. (2013). Fukusō zōkei-gaku riron-hen (Study of dress modeling theory) first edition. Bunka Publishing (Tokyo).
 Become a pattern drafter 1 women’s garments Esmod editions Paris France (2009).
 Joseph-Armstrong H. (2010). Patternmaking for fashion design. (Fifth Ed.). Pearson Education Inc. (New Jersey).
 Öberg I. Ersman H. (2010). Mönster och konstruktioner för damkläder (Patterns and designs for womenswear) Natur Kultur Allmänlitteratur.
 Kiisel K. (2013). Draping: the complete course. Laurence King Publishing (London).
 Aldrich W. (2014) Metric pattern cutting for women’s wear fifth edition Blackwell Publishing (Oxford)
 Chen C-M. (2007). Fit evaluation within the made-tomeasure process. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology 19(2) 131-144.
 Okabe K. Yamana N. Yamamoto K. (1995). Figure evaluation of the adult females silhouette and relation between the figure and the dress silhouette. Journal of the Japan Research Association for Textile End-uses 36(3) 295-300.
 Nakano H. (1986). Dress beauty and figure of women. The Japan Research Association for Textile End-Uses 27(8) 330-335.
 Makabe H. Beppu M. (1997). The construction of the basic system for the clothing pattern design (part 1). The indispensable measurement items of the upper body. The Japanese Journal of Ergonomics 33(1) 35-46
 Kato S. (1994). Kenwan-bu ni fitto suru kigokochi yoi genkei (Comfortable basic pattern fitted on shoulder and arm part). Research report in Aichi Education University 53-58
 Brackelsberg P. Farrel-Beck J. Winakor G. (1986). Comparing fit of basic bodices and skirts altered by traditional and experimental techniques. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal. 5(1) 34-41.
 Wang Z. Newton E. Ng R. Zhang W. (2006). Ease distribution in relation to the X-line style jacket. Part 1: Development of a mathematical model. The Journal of the Textile Institute 97(3) 247-256.
 Wang Z. Newton E. Ng R. Zhang W. (2006). Ease distribution in relation to the X-line style jacket. Part 2: Application to pattern alteration The Journal of the Textile Institute 97(3) 257-264.
 Brockman Helen L. (1965). The theory of fashion design John Wiley & Sons Inc. NY.
 Scheffe H. (1952). An analysis of variance for paired comparisons. Journal of the American Statistical Association 47 381-400.