The study deals with the traditional clothing of the Southern Altaians – Altai-Kizhi and Telengits, living in the territory of the Altai Republic in the Russian Federation, its common features, ethnic specifics and, above all, the changes it has gone through since the second half of the 18th century to the present. During this period, there were several major political developments that had a significant impact on traditional Altai culture, including clothing. Attention is focused on the influence of Russian and Chinese textile production, the transformation of the material used in the production of clothing, its forms, decorative elements, colour as well as its role and use at present.
Jewellery occupied an important place in the various life stages of Central Asian women. Individual jewels that formed sets depending on which parts of the body they were worn on had in a steady form and a particular meaning in the past. Most of the items of jewellery were designed to decorate the upper half of the body, and among the most numerous sets there was a set of head ornaments. These were mainly various types of diadems, paired and individual pendants that were attached to the headdress or to the hair and, last but not least, earrings of various shapes and sizes. The collections of the Náprstek Museum of Asian, African and American Cultures feature a set of head ornaments from Uzbekistan dating back to the late 19th and early 20th century when the jeweller’s creations of the region were still of high quality. The set is represented by jewellery of three local styles – Samarkand, Bukhara and Tashkent.
Tereza Hejzlarová, Libor Dušek, Ján Vančo, Michal Čajan and Zdeněk Trávníček
This article focuses on jewellery made by the Kuchi people, which is still one of the marginalized topics. It presents the best-known types of Kuchi jewellery, the way it is worn, the most commonly used materials for its production and the most utilized jewellery techniques. With respect to the date of origin, the focus is mainly on the second half of the 20th century, but also on the present, with regard to the growing trade in these types of jewellery. For a more comprehensive illustration of design, material and jewellery techniques, a collection of jewellery from the 20th century and the present from the collections of the Náprstek Museum in Prague and a private collection was examined. The X-ray fluorescence (XRF) spectroscopy was used to find out the elemental composition of the materials used in the making of the jewellery.